Ruminations on my first few weeks in Paraguay

The Project

I’ve been in Paraguay for about three weeks now, and I’m having quite the experience thus far. I’m here for two months this summer on a Davis Project for Peace grant to implement a women’s rights and sexual health awareness project. We are working through an organization called Fundación Paraguaya to teach classes at a self-sustainable agricultural school in the campo and through women’s lending committees across the country.

We spent the first week mapping out our curriculum, putting together a teacher’s manual, and planning our classes. Last week we began rolling out classes at the school. Initially, I was extremely nervous about the classes and unsure of how rural students in Paraguay would react to extranjeras teaching them about such taboo topics. Luckily, our pilot class was a group of sympathetic younger girls who were eager to learn about the topics, and actively participated in class discussion. Naturally there were giggles when we discussed human anatomy and development, but overall, I was extremely impressed by their existing knowledge and the level of maturity exhibited. After class we were bombarded with all sorts of questions from gaggles of girls; the majority beginning with, “my friend wants to know…” It was reassuring that the girls viewed us a resource and took advantage of our presence. We strove to create a safe environment in which the students felt comfortable asking anything, so on that merit, at least, we succeeded.

Next, we taught a class for the older girls (ages 16-21). This class was somewhat more challenging. Throughout the class the girls seemed bored and somewhat disengaged. Although somewhat disheartening teaching-wise, after the class these girls also inundated us with questions, thereby reaffirming our presence. It was clear that this group of girls were especially in need of reliable information as many were misinformed and engaging in unsafe activities. It was a huge asset that we are only a few years younger than them, thus we they were able to relate to us without feeling judged.

Most challenging (and nerve-wracking) was teaching classes to the boys at the school. Naturally, it was somewhat uncomfortable to teach boys only several years younger than us. However, I was again amazed at their maturity and willingness to ask us personal questions. Overall, our classes at the school were a success- filling an information void and empowering young adults to make informed decisions.

Impressions of Paraguay

Paraguay is a country of contradictions. It is somewhat of an enigma, largely desolate of tourists or visitors. It is roughly the size of California and the least densely populated country in Latin America. Dominated for years by the ruthless dictatorship of Stroessner, and notorious for rampant corruption and contraband goods, much of Paraguayan life has taken place behind closed doors. Thus, it takes time, close friendships, and a shared tereré (a traditional Paraguayan tea drink comparable to mate) to begin to understand this country.

Paraguay has yet to experience the fruits of development. In this predominately rural country, there are few big cities and meager infrastructure to support the ones that do exist. The capital, Asunción, is the most advanced city in the country- at once boasting an obscenely rich population and impoverished communities living in unsanitary conditions. Most shocking is the image of the beautiful Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) juxtaposed against an overflowing slum community, a mere 100 feet away. This incongruity is reflected time and time again throughout the capital. Mercedes Benz, Audi, and Ferrari car dealerships line the roads while shoeless children beg on the streets. Ornate mansions with private security forces predominate the suburbs of the city while illicit slum dwellings inhabit the treacherous terrain underneath the main power lines and sewage systems. Wealthy young adults pub-crawl sheik new clubs while poor families crowd around a miniscule gas station TV to watch the latest soccer game.





In sum, I have never seen such dazzling wealth and such destitute poverty coexist so closely. This reality became exceedingly apparent when the colectivo (bus) drivers went on strike last week. Suddenly, whole communities were paralyzed. Those families and individuals whose livelihoods depend on public transportation were suddenly static. Meanwhile, wealthy individuals with cars hardly blinked twice. Sadly, the poor are largely dominated by their environment and external conditions (natural disasters, bus strikes, poor public education systems, crime-ridden neighborhoods, ect…) whereas wealthy individuals largely dictate their environment, as they have the luxury of choosing where to live, navigating their own transportation methods, attending private schools, ect…)



When the colectivos finally did resume, I was profoundly moved by the individuals I saw aboard the bus. As we boarded a decrepit colectivo to take us out into the country, we were squished between young kids and elderly individuals. Despite everything, these people persisted; children attended school miles away without a chaperone, parents worked double shifts, and grandparents continued to work well past retirement age to support large families. Stopping every two minutes, the never-ending bus ride was a lesson in perseverance and what convenience and money truly mean. Money is not about buying nice things or sleek electronics; rather, it is about buying convenience, efficiency, and time. As I looked to my right, I saw an old woman- her skin leathered and creased by years spent working in the sun. As she dozed off, a position in which one would typically relax, her face remained etched in a frown. That image- a life of mere subsistence and constant worry- even in times of sleep, will remain engraved in my mind forever more.

Soccer

Finally, on to another topic of utmost importance- soccer. Two days until the World Cup and I cannot wait! Every time I travel my belief in soccer as a universal language is affirmed. I can rest assured that no matter what country I travel to, if I start playing soccer in the park, I will have an in to local society. I also recognize that I’m extremely fortunate- coming from a culture that values women in sports- I have more leeway than locals in participating in a predominately masculine game. Because I am a foreigner, it is not considered inappropriate for me to play soccer with men or workout profusely. Ironically, the most resistance I have encountered is from local women, who sometimes stare judgingly at this blatant skirting of cultural norms. Still, with time, coaxing, and an inviting smile, the majority of these women soon acquiesce to a desire to kick a ball and run around. For me, one of the most rewarding experiences is seeing girls and women who typically crowd the sidelines of soccer games, get involved in a game of their own, giggle and let loose. Cliché as it sounds, it’s also reinvigorating having whole communities of girls cheering for me during a soccer game; these moments make me feel like I’m in a World Cup of my own, representing the potential of women worldwide.

On that note, I’m off to Sao Paulo, Brasil for the weekend where I will be watching the real inaugural World Cup game and flexing some Portuguese language skills. Até logo!