Sunday: My New Favorite Day of the Week

La Ciclovia



The Ciclovia is hands down the best part of living in Bogota. Every Sunday and holiday, from 7am-2pm, most major roads are closed off to traffic and dedicated exclusively to pedestrians. Families, runners, bicyclists, and skaters take to the streets basking in tranquility that is often absent in such an immense and congested city. Exercise stages are set up at various points throughout the city where sports professionals offer free yoga, aerobic, kickboxing, and stretching classes to the masses. In addition, these pedestrian lanes are patrolled by police and ciclovia helpers, which direct traffic and respond to accidents and emergencies. Likewise, subsidized mechanic booths are set up every 2-3 blocks, and offer quick and affordable repairs (1 USD) for flat tires or other bike issues.



The ciclovia, which began in Bogota in the early 1980’s in an effort to improve city life, has been adopted by every major city in Colombia, and many others across the world. The effects are immeasurably positive. By providing a safe and fun space for citizens to engage in exercise, the ciclovia directly helps trim obesity and touts the benefits, physical and emotional, to be gained from healthy living. The ciclovia is also a model for intergenerational mixing, providing a space for families to interact and spend quality time together. In addition to improving the quality of life of most citizens, the civlovia also contributes positive economic benefits, as thousands of vendors park themselves on sidewalks selling everything from fresh fruit juice to artisanal crafts.



Most importantly, the ciclovia helps foment social trust and a sense of civic responsibility. Most Bogotanos and Colombians take immense pride in the ciclovia, in a way that you don’t see in other aspects of life. They are quick to protect the sanctity of the ciclovia and look out for one another, helping fallen bicyclists and engaging in nonchalant conversations with strangers. The usually rigid city and overly cautious city populous opens up uncharacteristically in the ciclovia, taking a more active civic role. Moreover, the ciclovia is a social equalizer, a space wherein all citizens, irrespective of their socioeconomic class can come together and enjoy the same space and activities. In fact, the ciclovia is one of the few places in Colombia where you see this inter-class mixing, unconsciously helping to dismember preconceived notions and humanize all citizens.

Prior to Colombia I’d always thought of Sundays as one of the worst days of the week, a day which inevitably entailed running errands and preparing for the busy week ahead. Here in Colombia, Sundays have a majestic quality, bereft of stress and urgency, in no small part attributable to the ciclovia.

Cultural Pet Peeves

Three-month reflection


Don’t get me wrong, I love Colombia, but being here for almost three months there are some things I have come to notice that I cannot understand for the life of me. Unfortunately, this is only my second post on Colombia so I haven’t had a chance to highlight all the wonderful things about this country. Not to worry those posts will be forthcoming. However, in the meantime I offer you a foray into some of the less alluring facets of Colombian culture. For those of you living in Colombia I hope you share some hearty laughs and sighs; for the rest of you, I guess it’s time to come visit.

1. Bureaucracy. Everything takes forever. Anyone that has traveled in third world countries should be well attuned to this fact; nevertheless, it never fails to amaze me how long basic things can take. Clearly the concept of efficiency has yet to permeate the majority of the world. Standing in lines, completing proper forms, and speaking with customer service representatives can well consume your entire day. Everything from extracting money from an ATM, purchasing groceries, and returning a purchase can and will consume at least an hour. When you get to more complicated endeavors- visas, opening a bank account, phone lines- the process can take upwards of weeks and months.

Luckily, Colombia has been better on this front than many other places I have traveled to; however, the country still leaves much to be desired in this realm. Purchasing a cellphone and account took only a day; the visa two weeks; and the cedula three days. Although not outrageously lengthy, most of those endeavors required multiple trips to the various locations and a huge outlay of time and energy. Often I had to return only to be told I needed another paper or document fotocopied. Most frustrating, I was often told I could not acquire something without first having a document that was still pending approval. Nonetheless, I am proud to say that at the two-month point all of the major necessities- visa, bank account, cell phone, cedula- are in order and running smoothly.

2. Public Transportation and Pedestrians
Going anywhere in this city is a burden. Public transportation is an atrocity and crossing the street is a treacherous activity. To get anywhere in the city you have four basic options: the transmilenio, buses, taxis, or walking.

• The transmilenio: The transmilenio is a public transportation system that was created in leiu of a metro. It involves devoting two lanes of all the major streets lanes to special “rapid transit buses.” These routes traverse the entire city and the buses move with relative speed, although they must still respect stoplights and other traffic laws. This system is extremely beneficial to cities that lack the infrastructure, capital, time, or technology to invest in building a metro system. Bogota’s transmilenio system is used by the majority of the city’s population and has done a wonderful job bridging communities in the far south and the far north. Unfortunately, the system is too popular. Getting on and off the bus is an ordeal. At most hours of the day you find yourself wedged between people barely able to breathe and much less protect your belongings. Worst of all, everyone knows the pain of getting on and off the train, so they cluster near the entrances making it that much more difficult. Nonetheless, life without the transmilenio would be miserable, so at the end of the day I’m grateful that there is some rapid-ish system of transport.

• Buses: Buses are everywhere, but quite simply they are a pain in the ass.
They require intensive knowledge of city routes and an uncanny ability to board and exit while the vehicle is in motion. All of the city buses are privately owned making the routes somewhat random, and often overlapping. Routes are advertised via a small cardboard sign on the front window, which is often difficult to read until it is within several feet. Unfortunately, the fact that these are all privately owned buses wherein drivers are paid a commission based on number of passengers acquired compounded with the difficulty of discerning the routes from afar, create a situation of jerky, erratic driving. Beyond these difficulties, the buses are also notoriously uncomfortable and dangerous. Entering requires nimble maneuvering of an imposing twirly gate, decrepit seats, and a cramped ride. Finally, these buses are sometimes boarded by bands of armed youth, who proceed to rob all passengers of their belongings.

• Taxis: Taxis are by far the most reliable form of transportation, and unlike most things in Colombia, they are actually affordable. Unfortunately, taking a taxi is not all that simple. Due to the security situation and the ploy “paseo mileonario,” which involves two armed men entering a cab and then driving you to every ATM in the city and then ditching you in a random obscure location, Colombian’s have invented an intricate taxi security system. From any home phone line you can call a cab service, upon which you receive an automated message detailing the license plate of the cab and your passcode (the last two digits of the phone you called from). This system serves to ensure the safety of both the taxi driver and the rider, as you are both forced to verify the validity of the service. These cabs are then monitored by GPS by the various authorized taxi companies. This system works relatively flawlessly and is quite intuitive. Unfortunately, you are not always in a place where you can call a cab from a fixed line. (For example, my apartment doesn’t even have a fixed line so I am forced to call from my cellphone, which consumes minutes and time, and is outrageously expensive). Often, you are in a rush, outside, or leaving a bar or restaurant. Also, if it is raining outside or peak hours, you are often left waiting on the phone for 10 minutes only to be told that no cabs could be located at the time. This often creates a situation wherein you take cabs from the street and cross your fingers praying for the safety of your wallet and your person.

• Walking (more like running): In addition to all the staring you have to endure while walking, you must constantly worry about being run over. Pedestrian right of way is nonexistent and there is absolutely no respect for walkers. In fact, drivers seems to get intense satisfaction out of knowing they forced you to quicken your pace or sprint to avoid death. Walk at your own risk.

3. Que Pena. The word sorry officially does not exist in Colombia. This seems to be indicative of a culture with little accountability wherein no one is forced to acknowledge the consequences of their actions. However, in many countries in Latin America (with similarly low levels of accountability), people tend to say sorry or “lo siento.” In Colombia this would be a met with blank states. Whenever you commit any action that should merit an apology, the more appropriate response is, “que pena,” roughly translated to “what a shame.” For instance, this past weekend I was at a concert, when a heavily inebriated Colombian girl accidently smacked me in the face. The appropriate response, “que pena con usted” or “what a shame that I just hit you in the face.”

Interestingly, que pena can be applied to a myriad of situations. For instance if you cancel last minute on a meeting (which happens quite frequently) que pena suffices. If something does not arrive on time- que pena, if an event is canceled without prior notification- que pena. You get the idea.

4. Si when no. In Colombia it is culturally unacceptable to say no. The correct (and polite) approach is to say yes “si” and then later call and say no (in addition to a “que pena”). This cultural aspect flabbergasts and infuriates me. For instance, if you know for certain you will be out of town and someone invites you over for dinner during that time you must say yes, knowing you will then have to cancel. Saying no is taken as an extreme offense and a rebuff, even if you have previous plans and would really like to arrange a time to meet that could actually work for both parties. What this ends up meaning, at least for us gringo folk, is that we tend to believe when people tell us they plan on doing something. As such, we plan our day, and maybe week, around this purported event only to find out later that it has been cancelled or postponed. Not only is this approach to social interaction inefficient and disrespectful of people’s time, but also downright confusing.

5. Phones. (no email) Colombia is probably the most peculiar country I’ve encountered when it comes to phone communication. This country is run entirely on phone calls; however, they are outrageously expensive and inefficient. One of the first things I learned upon getting to Colombia was that I would have to become very comfortable with cold calling random strangers. Literally any inquiry or conversation initiation is done by phone. Colombians seems to not like to use email. It often takes weeks, if ever, for an email to be returned. More commonly, however, email addresses are simply not listed and instead a number is provided. Interestingly, Colombians, no matter their social-economic statue seem to have no problem giving their cellphone number to everyone.

Now the peculiarity does not stop there. In Colombia there are three major cellphone providers: Comcel, Moviestar, and Tigo. Calling from one provider to another is double to triple the price of calling someone with the same operator. (A couple minute phone call can end up running several dollars). Thus hundreds of thousands of Colombians have taken to the streets selling “minutos” (minutes). On every street corner there are vendors hawking minutes to any operator for 150-200 pesos (7-5 cents) a minute. The vendor will have three phones (one for every operator) and you will place your call right there on the street. Unfortunately, this creates a situation whereby you are constantly receiving calls from random numbers with no way to screen calls. You are forced to pick up every random phone call for fear it could be important. Even more annoying is the fact that no one ever leaves voicemails. Often you will find six missed calls from random numbers with no idea of who called you and no way to call back (you would just be calling a street phone). Also, because all phone calls are priced by the minute, people tend to be super abrupt on the phone. In attempts to keep conversations under one minute, people hastily answer and hang-up the phone which can sometimes be offending.

6. Tiempo Colombiano. Nothing happens on time. *Que pena* Enough said.

7. Basic things are expensive. Since when does a notebook cost 5 USD? An arugula salad 7 USD? Basic Nike tennis shoes 150 + USD? A pen 3 USD? Body wash 6 USD? Unfortunately, this is the reality of life in Colombia. I recognize that this unfortunate pricing scheme is probably attributable to the high tariffs we levy on imported goods and the languishing free trade agreement, but still. I don’t understand how Colombians, who earn meager incomes relative to the high cost of living, can afford these products. How are these prices seen as acceptable? Most Colombians regard these prices as normal, and I guess I would too if I had no basis for comparison. Unfortunately, to afford a decent standard of living here in Bogota, and most big cities in Colombia, I imagine most families must live under a heavy debt load. Going to a store to buy simple school supplies, it immediately becomes clear why many families cannot afford to send their children to school, even given the high opportunity cost of forgoing an education. While many lament wholesale retailers like Walmart, Ross, Marshalls, TJ Maxx, we need to take a step back and recognize that these retailers help balance the playing field, and make quality goods affordable to people from all income levels.

8. Staring (especially the men). In the US, if someone catches you staring at them, you usually experience a dash of embarrassment and quickly divert your eyes, lest you make prolonged eye contact. Here, if you catch someone staring at you, they continue to pierce you with their eyes and do everything possible not to look away. Not surprisingly, this creates quite awkward situations (well at least for those of us not accustomed to staring contests with complete strangers).

Not only do these staring contest occur with great frequency, but also, staring in general is pervasive. This often makes walking down the street uncomfortable, especially for women. Men whistle and share unfortunate commentaries of “hola mami, princesa, precisosa, mamasota, ect (mami, princess, precious, super sexy mami)….” Walking to the gym is especially problematic as the men are unaccustomed to seeing women in shorts. (Women here do not wear shorts. In fact, no one wears shorts. It must be uncomfortable to workout in sweatpants. There are some things I am just unwilling to adapt and my exercise wardrobe happens to be one such thing; even if I have to endure 5,000 stares in the 5 blocks to my gym, shorts are a necessity. I realize this is becoming a tangent but while on the topic of the gym it is important to note that people here do not wear gym clothes to and from the gym, especially the women. Women arrive at the gym looking spectacular, change in the dressing room, and proceed to barely sweat for the next hour; they wrap up by showering, straightening their hair, and applying makeup- all before leaving the gym. Seriously, this routine strikes me as exhausting and restricting. I much prefer to arrive and leave the gym in my workout clothes and shower in the comfort of my home- but hey that’s just me).

9. Machismo. Men are expected to pay for everything. One of my Colombian guy friends said to me the other day, “Wow you leave your house with so much money (20 bucks), women here never leave with more than 10 mil pesos (~$ USD 5) because they expect/know that men will pay for them.” I guess this phenomenon is another manifestation of machismo, but the repercussions for both sexes are disastrous. By always expecting men to pay and never offering, women inadvertently bestow power on men and fail to embrace the idea of independence. Conversely, by paying for everything, men continue to see themselves as the primary or only breadwinner, and do not fully value women (in all realms- opinions, economic worth, as a partner). Moreover, it perpetuates a culture in which young pretty women are constantly seeking out older (mostly unattractive) men with money. Obviously this occurs in all countries, but in Colombia this is taken to another level, especially given the prevalence of drug money floating around the economy.

10. Fingerprints. Sometimes I feel illiterate in Colombia. You may be wondering why. On any form of any import you are required to sign with fingerprints. This includes any large purchase, bank account, cellphone statements, ect… Understandably, security concerns are of a larger magnitude here in Colombia, however, constant fingerprinting seems excessive. For instance, even to enter and exit my gym, I am required to place my fingerprints under an electronic scanner!

11. General insecurity and theft. In the less than three months I have been here I have had a cellphone, a camera, and 300 USD stolen. Granted that the cellphone was probably the result of lack of diligent care while out clubbing, the camera was snapped from a zipped jacket pocket while touring the streets of Medellin. Unfortunately, Colombia is well known for pervasive robbery, sometimes even among friends. A careful polling of current Fulbrighters revealed that the majority of us have been robbed, many at knife point. This dynamic makes day-to-day activities especially taxing. I am constantly worried about my belongings, and often alter my plans to ensure the safety of my goods. Especially frustrating is not being able to bring my computer out of the house without significant risk. I find it extremely challenging to work in my bedroom, and especially while on my bed; in college I always worked in the computer lab, the library, or a cafe. With Colombian’s renowned coffee and plush Juan Valdez (akin to Starbucks) just blocks away, I would love to be able to plop down for hours at a time and be productive.

In addition to constantly being worried about your material belongings, it is disconcerting not to be able to trust anyone. In Colombia they even have a saying that they don’t even trust their own mother. Knowing that a forgotten cellphone, credit card, or identification card would be returned in .001% of cases, even among the elite, is depressing and telling. Coming from the Claremont cocoon where a dropped ID card or cellphone immediately yielded an email filled with worry and an offer to return the good at your earliest convenience, this has been quite jarring. On a personal level, it is disheartening to constantly be second-guessing those around me, and over time, I suspect could lead to a calloused perception of the human spirit.


In sum, my dear United States, oh how I miss thee. Still, I appreciate you too, beautiful Colombia, even with your foibles.

Colombian Fulbright Scholar

My Project



I apologize for the delay in my blog posts. I’ve been in Colombia for about two months now and I’m finally feeling sufficiently settled to begin reflecting and documenting my adventures thus far. As many of you are aware, I am currently living in Bogota, Colombia on a Fulbright research grant. I was awarded the grant to conduct research on Colombia’s conditional cash transfer program, Familias en Acción. Essentially this program provides direct cash to poor families (as quantified by Colombia’s SISBEN poverty line measures) contingent on certain behaviors like school attendance, health check-ups, and immunizations. The overarching goal is to alleviate poverty by combining short and long-term techniques. In the short run, the cash helps smooth consumption and provide liquidity to cash-strapped families; in the long run, the program seeks to incentivize human capital development and break the inter-generational cycle of poverty. More specifically, I plan to look at how the program has been applied in urban areas- with what success, challenges, and areas for improvement.

In order to get a comprehensive perspective on the program and its implementation I will use a variety of means- both quantitative and qualitative. As such, I am engaging in a diverse range of activities here in Colombia. I am currently taking relevant economics classes at the prestigious Universidad de Los Andes. Through these classes I hope to complement my specific research with foundational knowledge specific to Colombia’s economy and social policies. In addition, I have a partnership with Colombia’s premier economic policy think-tank, Fedesarrollo. Through them I hope to leverage important governmental and political contacts, while engaging in discussion with renowned economists. Additionally, I have been working with Acción Social, the governmental arm responsible for all social projects in the country, including Familias en Acción. Fortunately they have taken me under their wing, and have been extremely helpful in opening their databases, explaining the program, and taking me on site visits to relevant communities.

Next semester, I will be engaging in comparative regional studies, to see how the program has been applied in different cities, and get a grasp on the unique challenges and characteristics throughout the country. As I continue to progress with my research, I am positive new questions will arise that will merit studying, and with time, it will become clear exactly what facet of the program I choose to focus on.



In my free time I am volunteering with two NGO’s. Every Wednesday I head to Ciudad Bolivar, the largest illegal displaced settlement in Bogota, to volunteer with Colombianitos. Colombianitos is an NGO that uses soccer as a vehicle to help at risk youth in marginalized communities. They provide homework assistance, relevant workshops, and most importantly, a safe space for youth to exercise and convene. Typically I assist younger students with homework for several hours, and then coach a teenage girls soccer team. This work has been extremely rewarding and has allowed me to see a different side of Bogota. In another similarly marginalized community, Soacha, I volunteer with Ahmsa, an NGO that promotes microeconomic development and was started by a former Fulbright scholar. With Ahmsa my official title is Program Officer for Microfinance Development, where I work to maximize microcredit impact, garner seed capital, publicize important events, and manage local relationships.

In between these more programmed activities, I play on a soccer team at the University, workout at a nice gym near my house, engage in significant reading and coffee drinking, travel, and finally, enjoy a hearty dose of the Colombian rumba.

The Behemoth in Latin America

Sao Paulo, Brasil

Sao Paulo is the largest and wealthiest metropolis in South America and Latin America overall. With over 10 million inhabitants in the city alone, Sao Paulo is the world’s third largest city and often draws comparisons to New York City. As one of the epicenters of finance, commerce, fashion, and entertainment, Sao Paulo attracts visitors from every corner of the world. Sao Paulo’s ever-expansive city limits insure that there is a niche for all; Sao Paulo is complete with a bohemian district, a lively arts and theatre scene, a thriving gay population, a huge business community, and everything else imaginable.



Apart from overwhelming me with its sheer size, Sao Paulo was impressive in so much that it is clearly a city of the future. Paulistas bustle around the city with a sense of purpose, efficiency abounds, culture thrives, and citizens maintain a friendly demeanor. Two of the most notable facets of Sao Paulo were its ultramodern metro system and the pervasiveness of credit cards, both speaking to Sao Paulo’s emergence as a city of global importance. Despite having ridden metro and bus systems around the world, none has impressed me more than that of Sao Paulo. Throughout the course of my week in Sao Paulo, I never waited for over 45 seconds for a metro car to arrive. The well-designed system moves at breakneck speed, connecting neighborhoods across the board with periphery areas. Akin to New York City and Washington, DC, the metro system is frequented by all social classes, and is often a preferred transport to the bottleneck traffic visible throughout the city. In a similar vein, Sao Paulo status as a burgeoning commerce center was underscored by the prevalence of credit cards. Unlike many countries in Latin America where stores largely refuse credit cards and cash is accepted only in small bills, Sao Paulo stands in stark contrast. Even the smallest fruit and craft street sellers had ATM machines, and ATM cards could be swiped to pay for minute sums. (Imagine the relief!)





On a larger level, Sao Paulo personifies Brasil’s impending greatness. Throughout the city there was a palatable energy and excitement for Brasil’s future. Brasilians take great pride in their country, and eagerly look to a future where they can play a more significant role in global affairs. Brasil is one of the most salient examples of a thriving multiethnic democracy. Much like the melting pot of the United States, there is no prototypical Brasilian. Brasilians range from oriental, to white, to black. In fact, Brazil has the second largest Japanese population outside of Japan. As such, Brasilians are extremely proud of diversity of their society (in terms of race, food, music, culture, and region), and though much social inequity exists, social works projects have been undertaken to mediate this inequality. Most pointedly, Sao Paulo is strewn with signs proclaiming, “Brasil is a country for everyone. Brasil is respected throughout the world.”

Brasil’s Cultural Gem

Salvador da Bahia, Brasil



The week and a half I spent in Salvador da Bahia was undoubtedly the highlight of my summer. Light years different from Sao Paulo and other Southern cities, Bahia showcases a different face of Brasil stepped in cultural heritage and tradition. A gem set along the Northeast coast of Brasil, Salvador is the heart of afro-Brasilian culture (80% of the population has Black African ancestry), and boasts sparkling white beaches, pulsing samba reggae, and zesty seafood.



The first colonial capital of Brasil and the capital of the Northeastern state of Bahia, Salvador is home to the third largest population in Brasil, after Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Also the poorest region in Brasil, Bahia lacks the industrial and business capacity of the Southern regions; however, what it lacks economically, it makes up culturally. The historical center of Salvador (the Pelourinho) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, capoeira and music abound, and the mystic Afro-Brasilian religion of Candomble is still widely practiced. Famed for having the best carnival in the world, impressive architecture, and a distinct culture, Bahia is a tourist hotspot, and draws crowds from around the world. For me, Salvador was especially magical. For years, I had dreamed of visiting Salvador. Finally, it became a reality. The first day in Salvador was surreal. Beautiful historic buildings sat atop an endless coastline, music and dance enveloped me, and sweet aromas wafted through the air. For days, I strolled along the beautiful streets of the Pelhorinio, lazed around on pristine beaches, sampled simmering seafood, and danced until I no longer could.


Capoeira



Capoeira is one of the most enchanting features of Salvador, Bahia. Dating back to the sixteenth century, Capoeira is an afro-Brsilian art form created by African slaves that combines martial arts, music, and dance. Capoeira originated from a traditional African dance and was developed by slaves in Brasil as a means of self-defense against their masters. Slave masters staunchly prohibited capoeira so slaves were forced to practice clandestinely, and in an attempt to disguise its marital arts nature, it was developed into a type of acrobatic dance. Musical instruments were used to alert participants that the boss was approaching. However, over time, the instrumental aspects and rhythmic clapping were incorporated into the art, and used to help maintain the rhythm of the dancers. In Salvador, capoeira is ubiquitous; performances occur on most street corners and local dance schools are plentiful. Clearly, Bahians take great pride in being the birthplace of capoeria, as this magical dance is highly esteemed and widely practiced.



Festival of São João



Due to genius foresight and careful planning, our trip to Salvador was arranged to coincide with the festival of São João, one of the largest in Brasil’s interior, and the second most important festival in all of Brasil after Carnival. The festival commemorates Saint John, and was introduced to Brasil by the Portuguese Jesuits during the colonial period. Although many Brasilians visit family in the interior, where the festivities are larger, São João is also celebrated in urban areas by all social classes. The festivities feature typical clothing, food, foro (country music), bonfires, and fireworks. Salvador was adorned with colorful banners and music venues, and parades of traditional dancers overtook the streets. Every evening music could be heard blaring from stages around the city and crowds seen gyrating to the beat until the wee hours of the morning. São João was a delight because of the sheer abundance of everything- food, drink, spirit, and people. Melted cheese sticks, spiced shrimp, and sugared plantains were consumed in mass, while beer and fruit-flavored liquor flowed freely. Best of all, the entertainment was sponsored by the local government, and was free for all to enjoy.



Soccer Frenzy

While Salvador in and of itself was magical, being in Salvador during the World Cup was an unworldly experience. The energy and excitement coursing through the city was infectious. Bahians proudly sported their jerseys, soccer chatter dominated conversations, and a mix of confidence and nervousness left old and young alike giddy with excitement. Brasilians take game day preparations very seriously. Entire meals, parties, and weeks are planned around game days. For instance, feijoada, a typical Brasilian dish served only on Sundays, are a custom of game days, drinking is permitted in excess at any time of the day, and dance parties spontaneously erupt in mid-afternoon. It is often said that soccer brings out the best and worst in Brasilians. Brasilians take great pride in their art of soccer and are not accustomed to losing. A Brasil win guarantees a party and continued festivities, whereas a loss heralds fights, name-calling, and general melancholy.



During game days, huge screen plasma televisions were erected throughout the city, entire streets were cordoned off, and bands were arranged for post-game jubilation. I was fortunate enough to be in Salvador for two Brasil games. I spent the first game at a huge house party, flush with food, liquids, party favors, and noise making machines. With each goal, fireworks were exploded throughout the city and cheers of joy could be heard echoing throughout the streets. Immediately after Brasil’s 3-1 triumph over the Ivory Coast we joined the parade of people in route to the central plaza. There, samba reggae bands exploded in frenzy, throngs of people danced sensually, and general rowdiness ensued. The second game, Brasil v. Portugal, though lackluster with a score of 0-0, still proved cause for celebration as it indicated Brasil’s advancement to the next round. Jumping up and down and moving to the steady drumbeat, we found ourselves enmeshed in the crowd and captivated by the music, wishing we could stay here in definitely. Fortunately for us, we returned to Paraguay before Brasil’s premature loss to the Netherlands the following week. Conversations with friends affirmed that the post-loss scene in Salvador was bleak- fights were rampant, jerseys were discarded, curses abounded, and World Cup posters were ripped to the ground. For once I was grateful not to be in Brasil. Although already devastated by Brasil’s loss, being in the epicenter of such a crestfallen people, would only have worsened my depressed state.





Still, I knew I was bidding only a temporary goodbye to Salvador. I would be back; sooner, rather than later.

A Model City for Urban Planning

Curitiba, Brasil



Curitiba, the capital city of the Brazilian state of Parana, is internationally lauded as a leading example of effective urban planning. With 1.8 million people and a US $17 billion GDP, Curitiba is home to the largest population and economy in Southern Brazil. Moreover, Curitiba is extolled as the best place to live in Brazil and the best location for international investors. The city registers a 99% resident satisfaction rating and a 30-year economic growth rate 7.1% higher than the national average of 4.2%, and a per capita income 66% higher than the Brazilian average. Today, Curitiba is considered one of the best examples of urban planning worldwide. In June 1996, the chairman of the Habitat II summit of mayors and urban planners in Istanbul praised Curitiba as "the most innovative city in the country.” Additionally, Curitiba was recently recommended by UNESCO as one of the city-model for the reconstruction of the cities of Afghanistan. Thanks to these distinctions, the city receives more than two million tourists per year, many of whom come to bear witness to Curitiba’s reputation as a progressive, green, and socially conscious city.




This summer I was one of those tourists. Only a 10-hour bus ride from Foz de Iguacu, I simply could not resist the temptation of a quick two-day trip to this innovative city. One of the first things I noticed was the lack of social and racial segregation and the dearth of favelas (slums)- staples in most Brazilian cities. Here in Curitiba, multi-racial couples were the norm, beggars and street children were rare, and a general feeling of safety and tolerance permeated the streets. A deeper investigation into this phenomenon revealed it to be the product of concerted government planning. Education, transportation, and environmental initiatives had combined to create a progressive, safe, educated city with happy, engaged citizens.



Most widely recognized is Curitiba’s transportation system, which includes a bus rapid transit system, the RIT (Rede Integrada de Transporte, Integrated Transport Network). Created in the 1980’s, the RIT allows transit between any point in the city by paying one standard fare. The well-maintained buses stop at designated elevated cylinders throughout the city where paying passengers patiently wait to board. This system is used by 85% of Curitiba’s population, and services more than 2 million people per day. As a testament to its effectiveness, auto traffic has declined significantly and the city registers the lowest pollution levels in Brazil even though Curtibia has more car owners per capita than anywhere in Brazil. The success of the system has provided inspiration for similar urban endeavors such as the TransMilenio in Bogotá, Colombia; Metrovia in Guayaquil, Ecuador; and the Transmetro in Guatemala City, Guatemala.



Curitiba is also referred to as the ecological capital of Brazil, sporting a network of 28 parks and wooded areas and numerous environmental inclusion initiatives. In 2007, the city received third place in a list of the “15 Greenest Cities in the World,” according to Grist Magazine. The city carefully preserves its green areas and boasts 54 square meters (580 sq ft) of green space per inhabitant. Beyond the plethora of public parks and recreational space, builders receive tax breaks if their projects include green space. Under Curitiba’s recycling program, 70% of the city's trash is recycled by its residents. Once a week, pre-sorted garbage is collected by city trucks, and then sorted in a garbage separation plant by government employed homeless and recovering alcoholics. This recycling program is estimated to save 1,200 trees a day, while proceeds from recyclable material sales are channeled into social programs. In addition, a "green exchange" employment program targets social inclusion, while also benefiting the environment. Low-income families living in shantytowns unreachable by city trucks can bring their trash bags to neighborhood centers and exchange them for bus tickets and food. This system helps alleviate the typical problems caused by shantytowns wherein trash is carelessly burned, water supplies polluted, and disease allowed to fester, thereby proliferating unsanitary living conditions. Finally, the city also employs a program whereby children can exchange recyclable garbage for school supplies, chocolate, toys and tickets for shows.



Other notable social works projects include Curitiba’s job training and educational programs. For example, at the city’s Open University, residents can take courses in subjects such as mechanics, hair styling and environmental protection for a small fee. Another project called, the "Faróis de Saber" (Lighthouses of Knowledge) established “lighthouses” or free educational centers, which include libraries, internet access, and other cultural resources for residents. In addition, the government coordinates job training and social welfare projects; retired city buses are often used as mobile schools or offices; and downtown areas are transformed into pedestrian streets with gardens tended by street children.



Although Curitiba was not a conventionally exciting city to visit, I relished seeing this internationally acclaimed city in person. Indeed, this city lush with parks, craft markets, food varieties, and an effective transportation system was well deserving of the praise. I was amazed at the number of parks, lack of slums, and perfectly preserved cultural centers. I enjoyed strolling through the food market, stopping to savor food from every region in Brazil and beyond, warming myself with sweet quentao (heated wine served with marshmallow cream), salivating over soccer memorabilia in the Brazilian Football Museum, and people watching in the numerous parks and malls. Most impressive about the city was the extent to which you could see the fruits of government programs. As such, Curitibans take pride in their city and are willing to throw their time, money, and support behind such social initiatives. In sum, Curitiba was a refreshing example of what a positive role the state can play in improving the lives of its citizens.

Final Reflection on Davis Project

The Project Outcomes

Our sexual health and women’s rights awareness project, Alcanzando Nuevas Alturas, executed through a partnership with Fundación Paraguaya, a non-profit organization promoting entrepreneurship as a means to alleviate poverty, was based on teaching students and committee members courses on sexual health and women’s rights and training locals to do the same. The project sought to provide a solution to the sexual health and women’s rights poverty indicator by facilitating open dialogue, providing critical sexual health information, and increasing general awareness of women’s rights issues. Although we did not receive external funds, friends, family members, and personal contributions played an important role in making our project a reality. Overall, this summer proved to be a enlightening, life-altering experience through which we learned important lessons, established meaningful relationships, and made a tangible impact on local communities.

For our project we first created sexual education resources and designed a comprehensive course. We then proceeded to teach sexual education and women’s rights courses to 150 students at an agricultural school in rural Paraguay and to women throughout the country with the goal of enabling participants to one day teach the same course. Throughout our summer we faced numerous obstacles. Despite intensive pre-trip planning, we were unable to account for the bus strikes, scheduling delays, power outages, and other unanticipated events that occurred. Additionally, although we were aware that Paraguay was a bilingual country, whereby most citizens speak Spanish and Guarani, we were unprepared for the prevalence and dominance of Guarani. Although Paraguayans are taught Spanish and Guarani concurrently from primary school onwards, more Paraguayans speak only Guarani than only Spanish, especially in impoverished rural areas. Thus, although the students and women we worked with spoke Spanish, most had a greater facility with Guarani and would often speak amongst themselves in Guarani. While this did not impede our project, our inability to understand or communicate in Guarani did add an additional cultural barrier and cemented our presence as outsiders.



Nevertheless, the most significant obstacle we faced was the inability to concretely plan anything. Despite being prepared to give classes or sessions, our work was often stalled for lack of coordination and communication among relevant parties. During lulls we took it upon ourselves to engage in side projects based on identified needs. For instance, we helped an agro-entrepreneur refine his business plan and explained the process of receiving seed capital and venture funding, showed fancy soccer moves to young women, and taught English classes to students. Most importantly, we realized that although many students at the agricultural school were learning important farming techniques, they lacked the skills to become true agro-entrepreneurs and yield monetary returns. In an attempt to develop technologically adept agro-entrepreneurs, we donated our laptop to the school and taught student courses on how to input data on crop sales, calculate costs and profits, and keep adequate records.



In addition, we could not have anticipated the amount of time spent in transit. Getting to sites was often a two to five hour ordeal completed on hot, crowded buses. Often, buses failed to arrive at scheduled times, if at all. Although this proved to be a nuisance and frustration, it was also a stark reminder of the way the majority of the world’s population travels and a lesson in the daily hardships endured by thousands of Paraguayans.



Despite some meaningful obstacles, our project was a resounding success. Because of the intended ripple effect of our project, it is difficult to quantify just how many people will benefit from our work. The hundreds of students and women that directly received our sexual education course are expected to share information with friends, family members, and communities, in formal and informal settings, extending the impact to thousands nationwide. Additionally, based on our final evaluation and the students’ warm reception of the course, the agricultural school is planning to implement a standardized sexual education curriculum. This will ensure that future generations receive the same education and that current students continue to review learned material. Moreover, the school plans to inaugurate a monthly charla (talk) devoted entirely to the sexual education topics covered in our course.



Unfortunately, due to unforeseen scheduling difficulties, we were unable to complete all of the women’s committee courses. However, because of our affiliation with Fundación Paraguaya, our work will be continued long after we leave. Not only are each of the twenty microfinance offices throughout the country now equipped with our sexual education resources, but prior to leaving, we trained new interns to carry out the work we began.


The Experience as a Whole

To me, peace entails a world in which people can leave free from discrimination, violence, and repression. Too often sex is used as a means to repress women, thus sexual education promotes peace by making women aware of their rights and empowering them to take control of their lives. Our project will contribute to peace in many ways, namely creating a safe non-judgmental environment in which to discuss important issues, educating future generations, and empowering citizens to share their knowledge with the larger community. Our project helped facilitate conversation on the generally taboo topic of sexual education by traversing sensitive topics such as domestic violence, human rights, contraceptives, and sexually transmitted diseases. By providing an environment in which students and women alike felt comfortable discussing these issues, we helped dismantle cultural barriers and created a forum for informed dialogue. In the long run, women and men will be able to apply learned concepts to their family life, while students will impart lessons to their friends, community members, and one day their families. Moreover, by helping dispel myths and providing accurate information, we empowered women and students to make informed decisions, and teach those around them to do the same.

My time in Paraguay had a profound impact on me, although not in a conventional way. Paraguay is a poor, land-locked, sparsely populated, unknown country, even to its neighbors. Despite this, Paraguayan people are remarkably warm, welcoming, and proud of their heritage. In this, Paraguay taught me the true meaning of adversity and unity, not only on a personal level, but what it means on a national level. My time in Paraguay also profoundly changed the way I think about the world. Despite having travelled extensively, I had seen dazzling wealth and such destitute poverty coexist so closely. Paraguay made me realize that extent to which the poor are largely dominated by their environment and external conditions such as natural disasters, bus strikes, poor public education systems, crime-ridden neighborhoods, while wealthy individuals largely dictate their environment, as they have the luxury of choosing where to live, navigating their own transportation methods, and attending private schools. My time in Paraguay also underscored the importance of infrastructure to development. A well-maintained and developed road network facilitates the transportation of goods and people. More basically, they allow students to attend school, parents to get to work, and goods get to market. Telecommunication lines shorten the distance between people and provide integral information; they allow farmers and others to communicate via mobile phones and promote education by providing an extensive information base via the Internet. Although well-developed infrastructure is not the panacea of development, it does provide an initial base from which linkages such as education, health, and technology can develop.



In Paraguay, the discussion of women’s rights and sexual health is taboo, thus our project helped fill an important information void and dispel damaging myths regarding these topics. For many of the Paraguayans we interacted with, it was the first time in their lives that they were able to speak openly about such topics, thus we hope that our class provided the first step towards a more open, empowered, and informed generation of Paraguayans.



Finally, I want to extend a huge thank you to Kathryn Wasserman Davis for providing us this amazing opportunity and for helping harness the passion of young people to affect change around the world.